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Island Peak / Lobuje East 2011

In December I found myself back in Nepal for a private trip attempting Island peak and Lobuje in winter.

I had a few days to kill in Kathmandu so I figured what better way to spend my time than go see some monkeys.

We flew into Lukla and began our Trek. Our first stop was Monju. We met some very rowdy kids.

Monju

After Monju we headed to to Namche where we spent two nights in order to acclimatize before going higher.

Namche

After Namche we continued on stopping for lunch at the Tangboche Monastery and then moving on to Pangboche. Over the next 4 days we hit Dingboche, Chukung, and finally Island Peak Base camp. We had one more rest day in Dingboche.

Tangboche Monastery

Dingboche

Island Peak Base Camp

We took a rest day at Base Camp to further acclimatize. We used the day to go over rope and foot work.

On the move to high camp

All settled at our high camp. Now for a few hours of sleep before our 2 am start for a summit attempt.

Summit Push

Headwall

Summit

Success on Island Peak

After Island Peak we backtracked to Dingboche. We took a rest day  before heading to Lobuje base camp

In route to Lobuje base camp

Lobuje Base Camp

We set up Base Camp, sorted gear and the next day moved to our high camp

I found a small frozen water source. I chopped a hole and collected some nasty stuff.

At 3 am we geared up and headed out. Conditions where perfect. Temps where slightly warmer than those on Island with clear skies and no wind.

Beginning to get light. The sun never comes up quick enough on cold mornings

Entering steeper terrain

Great views and enjoyable climbing

Summit

Another successful ascent. Lobuje concluded our climbing portion of the trip. Now to Pack up and head back to Lukla for our flight back to Kathmandu.

 

 

Acadia 2011

After my season on Rainier I headed to Maine to guide rock climbing in Acadia National Park.

Otter Cliffs

I do most of my guiding at otter. 60 foot cliffs, no bugs, and an ocean view is not a bad way to spend the summer.

In The Groove

Wonder Corner

The Chimney

 

 

 

Rainier 2011

I worked on Rainier for the months of May and June. Teaching and guiding people of all skill levels.

On the move to Camp Muir

CAMP MUIR

Heading up to high camp at Ingraham Flats

Ingraham Flats

From the flats we start at around 1 in the morning for our push to the top

Summit Push

Summit

 

 

 

Aconcagua 2010

Arrived in Mendoza and after meeting clients, sorting gear, shopping etc. We loaded up our transport and headed to penitentes. Then next day we hit the trailhead.

Base camp

After 3 days of  hiking we arrived at Base camp. We will spend the next  3 nights here before moving to our first camp on the Mountain.

Camp 1

After a rest day at Base camp followed by a carry to C 1 we finally moved up.

Camp 2

After a rest day at C 1 followed by a gear carry to camp 2 we finally made our move in good weather. Not a bad view  either.

High Camp

After a few nights and C 2 and a carry to C 3 our final camp  we are Positioned to make our summit bid.

Summit Push

An early start and we underway on our push for the top.

Starting to feel the thin Air

Summit

After a successful summit we all made it back in good health to High camp.

3 days later we where all  back in Mendoza enjoying steaks and getting ready to head home.

 

 

 

Himalaya 2009

Back in Kathmandu

After waiting a day in Lukla to fly out we finally made it back to Katmandu. Most of the team has flown back home while a few of us still have a few days to take in the sights and finish with the last task of  getting all the gear cleaned, sorted and ready for the next trip.

Heading out

After another long day for our descent down to basecamp and a good nights rest,  we are packing up and will head out in the afternoon.  Looking forward to a few mellow days of trekking  along with a Yak Sizzler and a Beer. If all goes well and weather holds for our flights back to Katmandu most of us we be departing back to the states in 3-4 days.

Summit 

After an early start and many hours on our feet we topped out at around 1:00 PM. We decided to make our push from camp 2 which made for a little longer day but less shuttling gear up and down the mountain.  As the sun came up we where treated with some great views of our exposed camp 2. 

Camp 2

Made our move to camp 2 in great weather and fun climbing but with what seems as constant bouts of Giardia feeling a bit run down.

Carry to camp 2

Carried a load to camp 2 today. Great weather and enjoyable climbing the whole way. Now to get some rest before our move up tomorrow.

Camp 1

The Weather finally cleared any we made our move to camp 1. 

A day in the snow

While waiting for the weather to clear I figured what better way to spend some time than to make a snow Dinosaur.

Basecamp

after a few days of rest we have settled in at Ama Dablams basecamp.

Summit

Enjoyed good weather and a summit to ourselves. A slight cluster of incompetence on the way up left us waiting on the side lines watching it all go down, but after a few minutes we were on the move again. 

Island Peak

We will start off  with an ascent of Island peak to better acclimatize ourselves before attempting our main objective Ama Dablam

What a Load

Amazing the size of the loads the porters take.

Tengboche 

the team is all doing great so far. We took lunch and enjoyed taking in the sights of the Tengboche Monastery before moving on to our final destination Deboche.  

Namche Bazaar

After a few days of Trekking we have arrived at Namche. We will spend the next couple of days exploring and acclimatizing.

Lukla

After some  last minute gear prep my group and I flew to Lukla to begin our trip. I will be working on two expeditions to Ama Dablam and will be in this amazing area for the next couple months.

Katmandu arrival

I just arrived in Katmandu and after a few hours of sleep and some yak butter tea starting to feel a little less jet lagged.